Your First Custom Suit
How To Get Exactly What You Want
A custom-made suit is something that commands attention and communicates to others that when it comes to personal style, you mean business. Like all clothing, when your suit is impeccably tailored and fits you well — both in terms of actual fit and in that it fits your look — it brings a certain polish and professionalism that just can’t be denied.
Custom suiting is something that may feel out of reach, or too complicated for most men. And while making your first custom suit isn’t something we’d advise that you try on your own without help, we do have an amazing custom suiting program at Ticknors that helps everyone create the perfect suit for them.
What Is a Custom Suit?
A bespoke or made to measure (e.g. custom) suit is a suit that is crafted to bring your vision to life. The Style Advisor works with you to understand your vision for your suit, how you’ll wear it, and how you like your clothing to fit and communicates that to a tailor, who then crafts it specifically for you. The result is a suit that is customized just for you. You’ll be hard-pressed to ever find an exact match of that suit because it was created based on your exact specifications.
In the suiting world there are three options to consider:
Ready To Wear Suits
A ready to wear suit, as the name implies, is a suit that is ready to wear, right out of the store. They are mass-produced and pre-designed. With minor tailoring adjustments (which are always included with your purchase of any clothing at Ticknors), you’ll be ready to wear your suit.
Made to Measure
Made to measure suits are based on a standard suit pattern and made to fit your exact measurements. In addition to the custom measurements done just for you, you’ll have the opportunity to choose how your suit will be detailed to fit your look.
Bespoke Suit
A bespoke suit is created without a pre-existing design or pattern. It’s completely unique and tailored just for you. To create a bespoke suit you’ll work with a Style Advisor to design it, choose your patterns, and determine what special touches you may want to add to make it uniquely yours. From there, the tailoring team will construct your suit based on your exact measurements and design. When you pick it up it will be a perfect representation of your vision and fit.
How To Prepare For Your First Custom Suit
So what should you know about custom suiting before you walk in to your local Ticknors store? Although our expert team will help you through the process regardless, it’s a good idea to know a few things about the process and about what you’re looking for to ensure that your vision comes to life as seamlessly as possible.
What Kind of Suit Do You Need?
Every custom-made suit is created with a purpose in mind. Otherwise, why make it? Know how and where you’re most likely going to wear your custom suit. Is it for a job interview? For a professional event or party? An awards reception or gala? Simply to wear to work (and look awesome in the process!)? Let your style advisor know your plans so that they can guide you to the best solution for your intended use.
What Kind of Fabric Do You Want?
It’s a good idea to study up, just a bit, on fabric choices available to you. There are many options out there, but we recommend choosing something that will be versatile, especially for your first custom suit. We love Worsted Wool and Super 120s Wool for suits because they are breathable, easy to wear, and are good for three-season comfort.
There are many fabric options out there, and a Style Advisor will help you choose which is best for your custom suit. Whether you end up with Super 120s wool, flannel, or even a linen, rest assured that you’ll be happy with the choice you’ve made because a Ticknors Style Advisor will help you every step of the way.
Your Suit Style & Fit
Think about how you like your clothing to fit and about your own shape. Are you looking for a slimmer, more modern look or do you like your clothes to fit more on the classic or traditional side? Further, do you have an athletic trim (broad chest and slimmer waist) or more conventional body shape?
Lapels
You also will want to consider what type of lapel you want on your jacket — a peak or notch are the most common options, unless you’re having a custom tuxedo made. A notch lapel is the most common type of lapel you’ll see on a suit. As its name implies, you’ll know a notch lapel when you see a little “notch” where the lapel and collar of the suit jacket meet. On the other hand, a peak lapel, identified by a “peak” where the jacket lapel meets the jacket collar, offers a slightly more refined and dressy look when you really want to knock things out of the park with your look.
Jacket Vents
Next, consider how you want your jacket vent. The jacket vent is the slit at the back of your jacket that allows for easier mobility, breathability and style. The most common type of vent that you’ll see on a jacket is the single vent, which has one slit at the bottom of the backside of the jacket. However, double vented suits are a bit more modern and offer and slightly more fitted look.
Pant Break
The term pant break refers to how much of the pant leg meets the shoes when standing.
- Full Break - the front, rear, and sides of the pant leg touches the shoe and has room for at least on fold or cuff over the shoe.
- Half Break - just the front of the leg touches the shoe, offering a slight “break” or crease where it hits the shoe
- Quarter Break - the pant leg just barely grazes the top of the shoe.
- No Break - the pant leg just meets the top of the shoe and does not crease or fold at all.
If you’re not sure what you’d prefer just ask your Style Advisor and they can help you decide. However, a safe bet for a more modern fitting suit is a quarter break, or a half break for a more traditionally cut suit.
Your Special Details
One of the best things about going for a custom bespoke suit or made to measure suit is that you can create a suit that is entirely of your vision. That includes custom jacket linings, buttons and stitching, and even if you want working buttons or show buttons. When designing your custom suit you can choose from literally thousands of options to create a look you’ll love.
Now Let’s Create Your Custom Suit
We make it easy to create a custom suit, whether you’re looking to go all in on bespoke or want to give made to measure a try first. All you need to do is stop in to any Ticknors store or even request an appointment to get started.
